I’ve been grown up in a pretty small village in the south of Munich and already had been a lot in the mountains together with my family since I was able to walk. Especcially with skiing, I had a lot of fun which meant that I took part in skiraces and competitions until I was 15. When I was 16 years old, I accompanied a good friend to our local climbing gym and immediately fall in love with it. While climbing, I totally enjoy the mix of elegance, power and the mental side, as well as the process of projecting. Because I’m almost only climbing outdoors on real rock, travelling together with good friends and discoring new places and climbing areas is also one of my passions.
Martina Demmel
Date of birth: 18 October 2001
Place of birth: Peißenberg
Place of residence: Böbing
Successes on the rock / block
On the rope
- El món de sofía, Siurana, 8b+, 6 tries
- Kale Borroka, Siurana, 8b+, 4 tries
- Der Seewächter, Ötztal, 8b+, 9 tries
- Pati pa mi, Siurana, 8b, onsight
- Zona O, Siurana, 8b, 2 tries
- JOY!, Kraftwerk, 8b, 11 tries
- Tanz der Moleküle,Lechtal, 8b, 2 tries
- Uranus, Nassereith, 8b, 7 tries
- Dr. Feelgood, Margalef, 8a, onsight
- Rodillar, Margalef, 8a, onsight
- Ciccio sauro, Arco, 8a, onsight
- La tuerie d’Oriol, Briancon, 8a, onsight
- Gr. Falkenweg, Rottachberg, 7c+, onsight
- Makach Walou, Céüse, 7c+, onsight
- Vögeln verboten, Franken, 7c+, flash
Bouldering
- Panic Room, Kochel, 7C, 2 sessions
- Wini Two, Silvretta, 7B+, 2 tries
- Amateur, Franken, 7B+, 1 session
- Vollprofi, Franken, 7B+, 1 session
- Donner Pfeife, Silvretta, 7B, 3 tries
- Happy Seventeen, Zillertal, 7B, 1 session
- Fangidifigidi, Zillertal, 7B, 2 sessions
- James Bong, Magic Wood, 7B, 1 session
- La rampe infinie, Bleau, 7B, flash
- Shanghai Syndrom, Silvretta, 7A+, flash
- Squa Man, Silvretta, 7A+, flash
- L’Ultime secret, Bleau, 7A+, flash
- Enterprise, Magic Wood, 7A, flash
- Toccami, Cresciano, 7A, flash
Competition successes
- Tölzer Stadtmeisterschaft 2019 1st place, female
Why did I choose Bleau?
I first heard about Bleau from Instagram and I liked the authentic and down-to-earth nature of the company right from the start. I was also convinced by the sustainability with which the high-quality products are only produced in Europe, and the environmental awareness that the company exudes. Ultimately, the cool designs of the comfortable bouldering clothes, which also offer perfect freedom of movement, made the decision easy for me. 🙂
In summer 2017, it was the first time for me bouldering on rocks, half a year after my first attempts at climbing, in a small area near Vils in Tyrol. Shortly afterwards we went to the magical bouldering paradise in Switzerland: Magic Wood. There were enough blocs to let off steam until the fingers were sore and it was time to jump into the ice-cold river that flows through the Avers Valley.
How much does bouldering determine your life?
I would extend the question to climbing in general, because I’m mostly on the rope. That’s why I would say that climbing is pretty much determining my life at the moment, especially because I’m currently doing a gap year until I start my education as a physiotherapist in autumn 2020. In addition, some other passions, such as traveling, listening to music, having fun with friends, spending time in the mountains, … can be perfectly combined with climbing. I also work in my home climbing gym as a supervisor for children’s birthdays, which means that I also have to do with climbing. Overall, in my opinion, climbing is not just a sport, rather the whole lifestyle and attitude to life that comes up and is part of it.
What is “The Spirit of fontainebleau” for you?
In spring 2019, I spent my first week of bouldering in the forests of Bleau. At the beginning, I didn’t really know what to expect as a sports climber, but the positive stories made me curious and excited. After the first few minutes there, I knew immediately what everyone was always raving about and what makes Bleau so special for me: together with funny friends, work out the craziest solutions on these unique sandstone blocs and enjoy every single moment between the blocs and trees in the sand. :))
Phew, can you really answer the question with so many unbelievably cool boulders !?
But I would almost say that my favorite area was Isatis and one of my favorite boulders, “L’oreille en coin” 7B in Rocher Fin, because I just couldn’t find a solution until this idea with a fairly high hook came up. This created such a cool movement and I was able to climb this gem at the very end of the trip.
Of course, traveling to foreign countries and discovering new landscapes and cultures. In addition, my second great passion is skiing, which I still do as often as possible in winter, but now more off track. Also chatting with friends, listening to music, watching one or another Netflix series, sometimes getting creative, e.g. painting the Grigri, the shoes and much more.
Foto: Simon Weißer